The dinner party that ended at the Inglewood Co-op.
By 8:47 PM, I was standing in the produce section of the Inglewood Co-op in an apron, holding two bunches of cilantro and a bag of frozen peas, and the chef de cuisine of one of Calgary's better restaurants was on the line giving me, gratis, the rescue plan.
The plan.
Six people. Saturday night. My Inglewood condo. The menu, decided three weeks ahead because I am the kind of person who decides three weeks ahead: roasted leg of lamb with anchovy butter, a Northern-Italian-style farro salad with roasted vegetables, a pavlova for dessert. I had practiced the lamb twice. I had practiced the farro three times. I had not, for various reasons that will become relevant, practiced the pavlova.
The guests were arriving at 7:30. I had factored in 90 minutes of cushion. I had a playlist. I had wine. I had cleaned my apartment to the standard a Calgary single woman in her thirties cleans her apartment when she is hosting two couples she would like to keep impressed.
The first complication.
5:14 PM. The lamb came out of the oven. The lamb was, in technical terms, raw. Not pink. Raw. My oven — a Calgary apartment oven, mid-2000s vintage, never quite calibrated — had been running approximately 100°F cool for three weeks and I had not noticed because the previous practices used different cuts.
I put the lamb back in. I cranked the oven. I added forty minutes to the timeline. Cushion: 50 minutes.
The second complication.
5:48 PM. The pavlova. I had been making the meringue base. The meringue base was a soup. I had read, somewhere, that you must fold the egg whites into the sugar. I had folded. The meringue had collapsed. There was no meringue. There was a sweet liquid in a bowl on my counter and I had thirty-seven minutes left to make a dessert.
I poured the liquid into a small saucepan and turned it into a thin sauce, intending to repurpose it as a fruit-coulis-thing for whatever the new dessert would be. I had not yet decided what the new dessert would be. Cushion: 30 minutes.
The third complication.
6:11 PM. The farro salad. The farro had been on the stove for forty minutes. The farro was not done. The farro was, in fact, aggressively al dente in a way that suggested I had not been fully attending to the simmer. I added water. I waited. The farro continued to be al dente. Cushion: 5 minutes.
At this point I had: a partly-roasted lamb of unknown future doneness, a sauce in lieu of dessert, and farro that resembled gravel. I sat on the kitchen floor in my apron and considered the available options.
"You're hosting six people in 79 minutes and you have a chef-mom call on speed dial. Use it."
The cavalry.
I called my friend Maria. Maria's mother is, by professional resume, the chef de cuisine of a 25-year-old Calgary fine-dining institution. Maria did not pick up. Maria's mother did. Maria's mother is named Adriana. Adriana has known me since I was nineteen. Adriana, after I explained the situation in approximately forty-five seconds of Italian-and-English, said the following words: "You're hosting six people in 79 minutes and you have a chef-mom call on speed dial. Use it."
The rescue plan, dictated to me by Adriana over the next four minutes:
- The lamb stays in. The lamb will be okay; you will rest it longer than you'd planned. It will be fine.
- The farro is done. Drain it. We are no longer making farro salad. We are making farro-as-the-bed-for-the-lamb. The vegetables you roasted go on top.
- The dessert: drive to the Inglewood Co-op. Buy the things I am about to list. We are now making a stovetop berry compote with mascarpone. It will take eight minutes. It will be better than the pavlova was going to be. Trust me.
The list Adriana gave me, over the phone, in twenty seconds: 250g mascarpone, two bags frozen mixed berries, one lemon, vanilla, a baguette, two bunches cilantro (for the lamb plate, which I had forgotten about), two bottles of decent red because "you said the wine was wine, that wasn't enough information."
The Co-op run.
The Inglewood Co-op at 6:18 PM on a Saturday is not the room of leisure that the Inglewood Co-op is at 11 AM on a Sunday. It is, briefly, the heart of small Calgary domestic emergencies. Two other women, both also wearing aprons, both also on phones, were doing the same thing I was doing, in different aisles. I made eye contact with one of them. She raised her bag of frozen blueberries in a small gesture of solidarity.
I bought the list. I added a brick of butter and three lemons because Adriana had said "buy enough lemons to fix anything; lemons fix everything in Italian cooking." I paid. I jogged back to my condo. The total round trip was 19 minutes. Cushion: -14 minutes.
The arrival.
The first guest arrived at 7:31, one minute late, holding a bottle of wine. I had at that exact moment finished the berry compote. The mascarpone was in a bowl on the counter, waiting to be folded with vanilla. The lamb was resting on a cutting board. The roasted vegetables were on top of the farro. I had not yet sat down for fifteen minutes.
I welcomed her. I poured her a glass of the Co-op red. I told her, with what I hope was passing grace, that there had been "a small adjustment to the dessert." She said, in a way that has become a friendship for life: "Lina. Everything smells incredible. I will not ask further questions."
The other guests arrived. We sat. The lamb — the previously-raw, doom-laden lamb — was, by the time it had rested an additional thirty minutes, exactly correctly cooked. The farro-as-bed worked beautifully. Two of the guests asked for the recipe and I lied and said it was Adriana's. The wine was the Co-op wine and it was fine. The mascarpone-and-compote dessert was the best thing on the table by a meaningful margin and three of the six guests asked, separately, where I had learned to make it. I told them, truthfully, that I had learned it 35 minutes earlier.
The resolution.
It was, against every signal of the late afternoon, one of the better dinner parties of my life. The guests left at 11:48 PM. I cleaned up until 1:14 AM. I texted Adriana at 1:17. She replied at 1:20. The text, in full, was: "glad you used the call. that's why we have it. cooking is mostly comedy and rescue. sleep."
The point of the comedy, in Booker's framework, is not that nothing went wrong. Several things went wrong. Many things went wrong. The point is that the disasters, when navigated with patience and good friends and a chef on speed dial and a Co-op fifteen minutes away, resolved into the kind of evening you tell at dinner parties for years afterwards.
What I'd file on the wall.
If you have a Calgary dinner-party story — your worst kitchen night, your Co-op rescue, the Italian friend's mother who saved the lamb — file it on the wall. The wall keeps them. The next thirty-something Calgary host on the floor of their kitchen at 5:48 PM with a collapsed meringue and a raw leg of lamb will need to know that this can go anywhere, and will, mostly, end well.